The best road in Norway: Fylkesvei 17
Forget the Atlantic Road if you are looking for the road with the best views over the Norwegian landscape! The Atlantic Road is overrated and many consider it a tourist trap. The best road I drove in Norway was definitely the Fylkesvei 17 (short: Fv17, translates to: Coastal Route 17).
Don’t get me wrong, Trollstigen and the Eagle Road at Geiranger are amazing, but are only good for a few kilometers of excitement. The Fv17 runs from Steinkjer to Bodø and has a total length of 630 and includes 6 ferries. You should bring some time when you want to drive this road because you will need to wait a lot for these ferries. Or, let me rephrase that: you will have some extra time to enjoy the Norwegian coastal scenery.
I skipped the first kilometers of the Fv17 because I spend the night at Rob and Ines’ house in Åfjord (Thank you, Rob and Ines!) and did not want to drive to Steinkjer first. Today I will drive to the village just before the first ferry on my route and tomorrow I will have to do 3 ferry crossings.
The road quality of the Fv17 is really good. It’s easy to drive with a motorcycle but also with a car with caravan. You will drive through a lot of small villages and there is hardly any traffic on your route. There are also hardly any restaurants or supermarkets. The supermarkets I spotted, were a combination of a gas station, supermarket and usually some other kind of store. You can get some basics here, but don’t expect anything fancy (or fresh/non-frozen, but maybe you are lucky…)
I did not visit any special or remarkable places at the Fv17, the road and the scenery were spectaculair enough. These are some photos that I took on my trip today.
You need at least two or three days to drive the Fv17. I needed to spend two nights and did not have any camping gear with me. Usually I try to find an apartment or room on Airbnb but I did not find any accommodation for my first night. I did find a cottage, which is rather expensive if you are traveling alone, but there was no other choice on the night that I needed a place to stay.
I decided to rent the cottage. It costed around €90, which is a fair price for the place, although it meant that I would have to save some money the next couple of days. The place is huge, you can sleep here with 4 people easily, has a fancy terrace, and is obviously in some kind of fishing hotspot. There are pictures on the walls of people showing of with their freshly caught fish, and there is a fridge to keep your fish fresh… if you are into fishing, of course.
You can pay by card at the gas station 50m further down the road, because the cabin owners wife works there. I guess they let their guests pay by card and then get cash out of the cash register, or something like that.
The route I drove today
Thank you for reading!
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Read more in part 2
Thank you for reading part 1 of my story about the Fv17. In the meantime I also wrote the part 2 of this story.